The Spirit Of Mud Drags


Mud drags is a popular motor sport which is played in the mud. This sport is very popular in places like the United States and Canada. Here a huge number of people participate every year in this sport. The wildness and its huge energy make this sport really interesting and popular.

Every year this particular sport is organized in places like United States and Canada. Generally in this sport you will get to see some of the huge gigantic vehicles. Sophisticated cars are not used in this game. Only big heavy four wheelers are used in this game.

In this race you will be given a particular length, rather a particular destination. Basically what you have to do is just complete the track as fast as possible. If you can complete the track taking the minimum time then you will be called the winner of the mud drags. So if you are in this game you have to drive madly to be a winner.

In case if all the cars are unable to reach their destination, then the vehicle that covers the maximum destination will be declared the winner. Here in this situation only the distance is calculated, not the time.

In the early times the kind of vehicles used for this sport was a bit different than what are used today. In early days the trucks used to be very big in terms of size and tires, generally these were the pick up trucks. Later, during the seventies, the big tractors were used in this sport. At last the much modified superchargers came into the scene, which are still basically used now.

Basically there are many types of mud drags; based on the track they are played. Some of them are known as open bog, hill and flat tracks. Hill tracks comprises of minimum 60 feet. The flat track is basically a track of sand and the open bog is a natural track.

Spending time at the mud drags is becoming very popular with every new month It requires a high level of driving skill and quality truck equipment. Any truck that is used at the mud drags, features a powerful engine and an excellent four-wheel-drive system that powers the very large wheels and tires on a lift-kitted truck that tries to dominate an extremely mud-filled trench.

Posted on August 18th, 2011 by Wayne Allen and filed under Article - The Spirit Of Mud Drags | No Comments »

Ways to Modify Your 4X4


Off road vehicle owners are challenge takers and thrill seekers. To tackle the challenges and increase the thrill, many enthusiasts begin to customize and modify their 4X4 vehicle as soon as they get it. Some modifications and some new off road parts can greatly improve off road excursions. An off roader can go to extreme limits after adding the five most popular 4X4 vehicle modifications.

Installing new shock absorbers is, usually, one of the first modifications a 4X4 owner will make. Shock absorbers from the factory leave a lot to be desired. Worn or insufficient shocks can be hazardous, on or off the road. Monotube, multitube, hydraulic, bypass, gas, and air shocks are some options. Coilover shocks are a great choice for many. Remote control shock absorbers are convenient and cool.

Manual locking hubs are another common modification on 4X4s. Hubs can be automatic or manual. Automatic hubs are convenient, unless there is a malfunction, but in terms of overall reliability and strength, manual locking hubs are the preferred choice. Manual hubs allow the driver to engage and disengage the front hubs as needed. Disengaging the hubs provides a smoother, quieter ride on the road.

Additional traction is very beneficial when four wheeling over varied terrain. Most 4X4 enthusiasts are not satisfied with “limited-slip” differentials. Manual or automatic locking differentials are preferred by most drivers. A locker, sometimes called a Detroit Locker or a Powertrax Lock Right, will dispatch 100% of the engine torque to both wheels on the axle. Some choose the manual lockers for reduced noise and a smoother on road ride, when deactivated.

Larger tires might be the most common modification to off road vehicles. Bigger tires provide more ground clearance and maneuverability. Off roaders can use bias or radial tires. Bias tires are great for rock crawling, riding trails, and running through the mud. However, they are not good, at all, for road use. Radial tires are more versatile. They provide a quieter, more comfortable ride on a paved surface. Off road conditions require deep, angled tread to grip and climb the rugged terrain.

After purchasing larger tires, a lift kit will probably be needed. Small, medium, and large size lift kits are available whether they be suspension or body lift kits. Small will give the vehicle about 1.5 inches. Medium provides about two inches. Large will provide four inches or more. Spring lift, shackle, reverse shackle, coil, and spring over axle are options for 4X4 suspension lifts. 1, 2, and 3-inch spacers are the options for body lift kits.

The internet is a great place for off roaders to find 4X4 parts, kits, manuals, and tires. Enthusiasts can find a lot of four wheeling/off road information and helpful tips, also. Vehicle modifications are changes that affect handling and performance. It may take time to adjust to the changes.

Manual locking hub kits are the best alternative to automatic hubs. 4×4 locking hubs keep those front tires moving through mud, snow, and ice.

Posted on April 7th, 2011 by Lewis McElhone and filed under vehicles trucks SUV | 1 Comment »

Whether You Should Buy Or Build Your New Go Kart


Go carting is really an unbelievably fun-filled and fantastic pursuit to engage in. With a go cart, you’ll participate in fairly fascinating social events for example showcases and racing, and you can utilize brand-new and superior progressive styles to your invention, making it not simply a useful operating go cart, but also an object of natural beauty and stylishness.

Those new to these types of vehicals could be faced with an fundamental judgment: whether to assemble their own individual go kart or to order one that’s already been assembled. Both choices have their particular advantages and disadvantages, and in the long run the final decision will come down to what you prefer.

Not surprisingly go kart pieces cost money, however the build up of all the parts will surely cost significantly less than a factory assembled go cart itself will. Normally, the racing go kart may cost anywhere from $700 to $2300, based upon on the style, the elements utilized, the dimensions and obviously the condition of the last result. The build up of the go cart components may well cost between $400-500 and $1300, depending on the same abovementioned variables that define the ultimate cost of the already built go cart. While a pre assembled go kart will cost you a lot more, it is guaranteed to function and keep working for a a very long time, being manufactured by properly paid builders.

Lots of people will wind up choosing the preofesionally built racing go karts because they may well not have ample constructing experience to build one of their very own – or they are not sure how well their personal finished product will function. On the other hand, paying for kart parts and building your auto by yourself will add more expressive value to the final product, which itself may well be customised to a superior degree than a pre-assembled model, thanks to the reality that you are the creator and will determine what may be put on. By putting together a go cart yourself, you’ll value it much more, having taken meticulous care to help to make sure that it is perfect and prepared for functionality on the road.

Finally, the choice comes down to finances, your own ability, and time limits. If you desire a go kart to be readily put together immediately, and you have the dinero to fork out, certainly you will wish to acquire one that has been created already. Of course, if you’re very good with your hands or really don’t plan on paying out a huge amount of dough on go carts, it is encouraged that you experience the gratifying hobby of making the cart by hand.

You can find some information about where to buy a cheap go kart at Go Karting.

Posted on September 25th, 2010 by Jenaffer Jones Redding and filed under automobile | 1 Comment »

Warn Locking Hub Kits

Located on the front axle of a 4WD vehicle you may find manual locking hubs. Take a look. They will be the small dials located in the center of the front wheels. They look simple enough, but the work they do is immense.

When driving your 4WD vehicle on minimal traction surfaces, it is essential that each tire has power and is fighting for every bit of traction. When four wheel drive is not being used, the front hubs are used to disconnect the front wheels from the front axle drive components. This would include the ring and pinion, axle-shafts, and driveshaft. Unlocking the hubs will allow the axle components to stop spinning, preventing the unwanted wear and tear on those parts. It will also help to improve the vehicle’s fuel economy since there will be less resistance during roll.

Arthur Warn (of the Warn company) invented the locking hub in 1948. Until then, most 4WD vehicles were “full-time” 4WD and suffered from poor street performance, terrible fuel economy, and excess wear and stress on all the drivetrain components.

As years went by, many of the 4WD auto makers have phased out manual hubs and replaced them with automatic ones. SUVs took the American auto marketplace by storm in the late 1980′s and well into the 1990′s and that is likely why automatic hubs were installed on so many 4WD vehicles. The car that everybody wanted to have was an SUV because an SUV meant 4WD. The problem was that most of these SUV drivers wouldn’t know how to put the vehicle into 4WD when the time came. To make the SUV more appealing, manufacturers outfitted them with automatic hubs to eliminate the “complication” of getting out of the vehicle to lock them.

As time has passed, SUV drivers from near and far have learned that these automatic units aren’t as wonderful as the auto manufacturers made them out to be. Sure, they were convenient… when they worked! It’s a well known fact that when you take something simple and begin to complicate it, failure is more prone to happen. The migration from standard hubs to automatic ones was no exception. Auto units have a reputation for their unreliability at critical times and for being weak under stress.

Manual locking hubs are stronger than their auto counterparts. It’s for this reason that off-roaders will always choose manual hubs over automatic ones. Even if an axle with automatic hubs has been routinely maintained, the serious off-roader can not rely on it because there are too many circumstances for which it will fail or just not perform when the moment is critical.

The simplicity, reliability, strength, and low cost of manual locking hubs have made them the ideal replacement for auto hub axles. The off-road marketplace is abundant with replacement kits that allow drivers to replace automatic units for manual ones.

Understanding how they work will help you get the most out of them and can make upgrading or repairing them a breeze.

If you’ve been thinking about converting your auto hub axle to manual hubs, you’re not alone. MY4BY OFF ROAD has the largest online selection of Warn hubs and conversion kits for all 4WD vehicles and has the parts to make your conversion a breeze.

Posted on June 3rd, 2010 by Jeff Lewiston and filed under off-road | No Comments »

What to Look for When Purchasing a New Diesel Exhaust System

If you’re looking to improve the overall performance of your vehicle, the first step in this process is upgrading from a stock exhaust system to an aftermarket exhaust system. I recently just purchased a diesel exhaust systems for my truck and in this guide I’ll discuss some important information you should know before making your purchase.

There are several different styles to choose from when searching around. However, it’s all just a matter of preference. All these styles will improve your vehicle in several ways, since the car-makers leave us room to improve our vehicles. They just use cheaper options!

The first improvement you’ll notice is the power from you’re new exhaust will create. This is why most people look to make the change. You’ll also improve the torque. The air is able to flow more freely than the restrictions on a stock exhaust. This creates more power, as well as other benefits you’ll enjoy when you make the change.

Now that you’ll have more power, your vehicle will also sound like it has more power. Most aftermarket exhaust systems have a great sound, which will stand out as you drive down the streets.

Now that you’ve spent money on the diesel exhaust system, there’s somewhat of a return on your investment (besides the pleasure of the additional power). You’ll start to save some money on gas. The emissions become more efficient which means the gas doesn’t burn as fast.

Now that we’ve discussed the three most significant improvements to your vehicle, let’s discuss a few of the different styles available. There are single exhaust systems and dual exhaust systems. Dual exhaust systems have less restriction than single exhaust systems. The gases leaving your vehicle have more room to escape, which will usually create a better sound and a bit more power.

The diesel exhaust system I recently purchased is made by MagnaFlow and the style is referred to as opposite side dual. It’s not the most common style, but it’s a great option if you ever use a trailer. I tow my boat and this style has the pipes shooting out from under the bumper and off the sides of the tire. This prevents the fumes from polluting my boat.

Once you make the change to a high performance exhaust system, you’ll never want to go back. You’ll love the sound, the power, the look and of course a few extra bucks over the years in gas money! Good luck in your search!

Read more regarding diesel exhaust systems and the car exhaust system at this author’s website.

Posted on January 12th, 2010 by Robert Ferrero and filed under Trucks | No Comments »

2010 Jeep Car Comparison And Gas Mileage Ratings

It was weird, when I first got my Jeep, other Jeep drivers would sometimes honk at me and wave. I always wondered what the heck they were doing. Well, apparently owning a Jeep is like being in a huge club. It does not seem to happen anymore much, but it was really strange.

Jeeps are very useful vehicles. They were built in the 1940′s for the US military and have now become a part of American society with 7 different models. Here is a list of the different Jeep gas mileage trim levels:

The 2010 Jeep Commander

There are two types of engine options for 2010: the V6 gets 15/20 and the V8 is rated at 13/19 and that includes a system that shuts down 4 cylinders when it can to get you better fuel efficiency.

Chrysler’s 2010 Jeep Compass

All Compass models come with a 4 cylinder engine. The 5 speed MT version has an EPA rating of 23/28. The 5 speed automatic gets 21 in the city and 25 on the highway.

2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee

The 6 cylinder automatic model is rated at 16/21. There are two V8 option on the Grand Cherokee: one has a Multi-Dispalcement System that shuts down 4 cylinders when you don’t need them to get you 13/19 and the big HEMI version that gets you a not so great 11/16.

The 2010 Chrysler Jeep Liberty

16 miles in the city and 22 on the highway is what the EPA is rating Chrysler’s Jeep Liberty at for 2010.

2010 Jeep Patriot

3 engine modes: 5 speed manual gets 23/28; Automatic comes in at 21/25 and the smaller 2L engine gets 23/27.

2010 Jeep Wrangler

This V6 features both manual and 6-speed automatic, both of which get 15/19.

The 2010 Chrysler Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

V6 automatic and manual both rate 15/20.

Tips for getting more efficient gas mileage for your Jeep:

a) Chose 2WD or don’t run the Jeep in 4wd when it’s not necessary

b) Chose the smaller engine option

c) Your air conditioning can absolutely kill your gas mileage. You may not like it, but roll down the windows if you can. Your pocket book will thank you.

I like my Jeep, but I am definitely getting tired of the gas mileage I get. I might have to go with a sedan or hybrid for my next vehicle.

Bill has a lot more awesome information at his Car Comparison site. What is cool is that the it is all awesome and details things like the Toyota Camry hybrid gas mileage.

Posted on January 1st, 2010 by Bill A. Sheers and filed under Trucks | 2 Comments »

Body Lift or Suspension Lift: What’s the Difference?

A body lift or a suspension lift are essentially two ways to lift your Jeep, truck, or SUV. Both methods have their pros and cons that are typically focused on price, performance, and ease of installation, but let me explain the difference between the two.

A suspension lift can use taller springs, spring spacers, lift blocks, differential drop brackets, cranked up torsion bars, or any combination thereof to raise the vehicle’s frame (chassis) away from the ground.

A body lift raises the vehicle by lifting the body away from the frame with spacers. This keeps the frame at its existing distance from the ground.

A suspension lift is recommended for anyone planning to spend a lot of time off-road. A body lift is recommended for anyone that wants to make their vehicle look lifted with no true intentions of going off-road. This doesn’t mean that a body lifted vehicle can’t go off-road. It just won’t perform as well as a suspension lifted vehicle because it hasn’t gained any ground clearance.

Suspension lifts are most often made between 2-inches to 6-inches, while body lifts range between 1-inch to 3-inches.

A suspension lift is more complicated than a body lift because it alters all of the suspension components that give the vehicle its factory ride characteristics. Taller springs are typically stiffer than factory engineered springs so the vehicle will have a bumpier ride than with soft factory springs. Longer shock absorbers will be needed. The center of gravity will also be raised considerably because the entire weight of the vehicle (everything except the axles) will now be raised further from the ground. In some cases (especially for short wheelbase vehicles), the transfer case will need to be lowered and the rear differential repositioned to minimize driveline vibrations.

Pros: Increases ground clearance, increased approach and departure angles, allows fitment of larger tires.

Cons: Costs more, longer installation time, driveline angles are increased (more likely to vibrate), brake lines need to be re-routed or lengthened, new shocks needed, increased center of gravity.

A body lift is relatively simple in that it primarily consists of a set of spacers that are inserted at the mounting points between the frame and body of the vehicle. This leaves all the heavy parts of the vehicle (frame, engine, transmission, transfer case, etc) at their factory locations so the vehicle’s center of gravity (though increased) will not be increased as much as a suspension lift.

Pros: Cheap, can be installed faster than a suspension lift, allows fitment of larger tires, simple (all components come in a small box).

Cons: Appearance (there will be a noticeable gap between the body tub and the frame), additional leverage is placed on the mounting points, ground clearance is not raised.

Ultimately, a body lift provides no benefits other than allowing the installation of larger tires whereas a suspension lift is designed for improved performance off-road (while also allowing the installation of larger tires). If you’re on a budget and want to make your 4WD look like a tough off-road vehicle but have no real intentions of ever going off-road, then a body lift would be adequate for you. However, if cost isn’t a factor and you’re looking to make your 4WD more off-road capable and trail ready, then a suspension lift is highly recommended.

Body lift kits are a popular choice for people new to the sport of off-roading. Their ease of installation make them great beginner projects for anyone just starting to get into off-roading and can be used in conjunction with a suspension lift should you decide to move up to something bigger in the future.

Posted on December 27th, 2009 by Jeff Lewiston and filed under Trucks | No Comments »

What To Know About Led Emergency Vehicle Lights

So, do you know what LED stands for? It means Light Emitting Diode. And nowadays, LED lights can be found in everything from kitchen appliances to toys, from electronics to automobiles, and all things in between.

When LED emergency vehicle lights first started coming out, they were used primarily to add a little extra flash to a product. Later, though, science and research began to uncover more uses for LED lights beyond the additional flashiness.

There are many benefits to using LED lights over such traditional types of lights like halogen, incandescent, and fluorescent.

LEDs use less energy and last longer. And, though they are smaller, they are have greater durability and they improve nearly anthing they are found in.

Searchlights used by firefighting and police crews use LEDs, as they are brighter than regular lights. By using LEDs, crews see further and can conduct searches from further afar than before.

LED lights are used more in lanterns and outdoor lights these days, too. They shine longer, don’t use as much energy, and are more easily stored or taken along.

Such places as stadiums, arenas, and stages also benefit from LED use. LEDs don’t emit as much heat, use less energy while being brighter, and are more easily controllable. This helps keep large crowds more comfortable, helps lower consumer prices, and can be used to make more detailed images at light shows.

And recently, television manufacturers have started using LEDs in their TVs. In addition to being more efficient, TVs now can project brighter and more solid pictures than ever before.

And LEDs are becoming the almost-standard light sources for nearly every aspect of vehicle lighting. LEDs are fast becoming the number 1 light source in everything from headlights to dashboard lights, and taillights to emergency lights

Aside from being used by police and firefighters, LEDs also are used more these days in emergency lighting. As the colors are stronger and brighter, they are seen more clearly, and telling apart similar colors is easier.

Here in the U. S., the following colors are used as emergency light colors. They are also examples of how LED lights can make these lights look better.

Yellow (or Amber) is found in slower-than-normal vehicles. Snow plows, tow trucks, security patrol cars, and school buses use LEDs in this color. Road barricades or warning signs also have yellow lights.

Blue is associated with one thing to most Americans – law enforcement vehicles.

Green can be used in anything from the fire chief’s car or truck to private security to a mobile command post set up in times of need.

Purple isn’t too common, but it is found occasionally on the vehicles of a funeral procession.

Red is maybe the most familiar and most common to see. It usually means an emergency. They can be seen on fire trucks, police cars, and ambulances.

White is used for any kind of neutral lighting, such as the lights at a parking lot. But they are also used by ambulances, police cars, and fire trucks.

Whatever the use, LEDs have almost become the standard type of light in nearly everything. They are especially used in emergency situations because of their brightness and far-reaching lighting abilities

Looking to find the best deal on LED emergency vehicle lights, then visit www.brush10.com to find the best advice on LEDs for you.

Posted on December 18th, 2009 by Roy Bouldin and filed under Trucks | No Comments »

Warn Locking Hubs

Warn Industries is a northwest based company that has always provided high quality products for the off road marketplace. Their winches have been the gold standard for years. Over the years, as their product line has advanced, they have done a respectable job of keeping their output at an excellent level both for recreational users and industrial applications. The Warn Premium manual hubs are no exception to that.

In contrast to other products in the market, Warn manual hubs are an all-metal construction that includes a thicker internal wave spring to be certain that they stay engaged. For people who take the term “off road” seriously, this is a major attribute to their rig.

Whether it is the Rubicon trail or a more local excursion, failure is not an option when civilization has been left behind. With this in mind, Warn rightfully applies the title “premium” in their premium manual hub line. As usual they over-build and engineer to a specification that includes tolerances that meet or exceed anything likely to be thrown at them.

The Warn Premium manual hubs require a 9/10 turn on the dial to engage or disengage. This offers the user certainty that the lock has been set or released. The Premium line differs from the OEM options in a number of ways. To start, they’re made with the ZA27 super alloy dial for strength. Then it’s lined with additional seals. This provides the user a higher level of protection against contaminants. Combine that with the all-metal construction and a lifetime warranty and you end up with a product that offers good value while leaving no uncertainties about why its labeled “Premium”.

As a company that is known for setting industry standards, Warn Industries is the undisputed “leader of the pack” with their Warn premium manual hub line.

The premium hubs are compatible with most domestic and import 4WD vehicles. Some products will even fit models from the fifties and even the less popular vehicles from International Harvester and the like. Whatever the vehicle you want to drive in an off road adventure, the Warn Premium manual hub will give you the performance and dependability that you need.

Warn lockout hubs are available for a large number of import and domestic 4WD Jeeps, trucks, and SUVs. MY4BY OFF ROAD is an authorized dealer of Warn hubs and has the service and selection to meets the needs of any 4WD customer.

Posted on December 12th, 2009 by Dorian Jepsen and filed under Trucks | No Comments »

Outfitting Your Vehicle with a Roofrack

If there is one thing that is true about our country, it is that we are a nation of motor vehicle fanatics. The great American dream (other than the part about having one’s own home) is in large part embodied by the notion of the eternal road trip-a journey out into the unknown of unforeseeable duration. Of course, if you’re heading out on a major road trip then you’ll need to figure out a way to fit in a good amount of luggage and equipment, which is where installing a roofrack on your car comes into play.

Most cars out on the road today are typical sedans and other passenger cars, all of which have one thing in common: extremely limited and minimal storage area. Based on that reality, somebody at some point had the marvelous idea of developing an alternative storage cabin on their roof, thus giving birth to the roofrack. Through the use of a roofrack it is possible for drivers to travel with more of their personal items as well as allow for more space inside the car which provides for greater comfort and safety while driving, not to mention the ability to bring along one’s unwieldy sporting gear (such as kayaks, surf boards, skis, etc.).

The kind of roofrack a person installs on their car will in large part be determined by precisely what it is they plan on storing in it, or on it, as the case may be. Simple, conventional roofracks are available for merely packing some extra clothing and light objects, whereas more heavy duty roofracks are in order for mounting your extreme sporting gear or other large and heavy objects.

Additionally, the precise kind of car that you are driving will be a determining factor when deciding the kind of roofrack to be employed; the way in which your car’s roof was designed at the factory will have a lot of effect on the final decision. In general, it seems like old cars were generally built with the sort of roof gutters suitable for installing roofracks, though today’s models generally are not manufactured in this way. No need to fret, however, as practically any kind of roof can be fitted with a stable roofrack with a little effort.

If you do happen to have a car with some variety of roof ribs or roof gutters then you are half-way towards your goal; then, if you have no such features on your roof then there is the possibility of strategically placing hooks or clamps in your door frame to serve as the basis for a roofrack.

The basic necessary set up for any roofrack consists of two roof rails that run parallel to the sides of the car and a minimum of one (the most common amount) cross bar-the cross bar is absolutely crucial, literally serving as the foundation for a sturdy and safe roofrack.

If your car has no roof rails then there are kits that you can buy to install rails on your own, which, if done right, pose no safety concerns or problems regarding your car’s appearance.

Of course, there are roofracks and roofracks: you won’t want to use the same thing to ride with your entire family’s mountain bikes that you use to store your spouse’s extra suitcase, so be sure to make a wise decision and get some advice before choosing what kind of roofrack to buy.

Byron Jonas understands that for roof rack products and accessories, you can’t do better All Vehicle Accessories. They can even install roof racks to your vehicle, ensuring safety and convenience. Get a totally unique version of this article from our article submission service

Posted on December 7th, 2009 by Byron Jonas and filed under Trucks | No Comments »